Quilt Batting Calculator

Enter your quilt top size and how it will be quilted. You get the batting size to cut, the smallest package that covers it, and the yardage for wide batting off the roll.

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Quilting method
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Ask your longarm quilter; most want 4".

Batting needed

Batting Size Chart

Batting for standard quilt sizes (4" extra per side for longarm quilting).

QuiltBatting neededSmallest package90" wide by the yard108" wide by the yard
Crib 36" × 52"44" × 60"Crib 45" × 60"1 1/4 yd1 1/4 yd
Throw 50" × 65"58" × 73"Twin 72" × 90"1 5/8 yd1 5/8 yd
Large throw 60" × 80"68" × 88"Twin 72" × 90"2 yd2 yd
Twin 70" × 90"78" × 98"Queen 90" × 108"2 3/4 yd2 1/4 yd
Full 84" × 90"92" × 98"King 120" × 120"5 1/8 yd (2 pieces joined)2 5/8 yd
Queen 90" × 95"98" × 103"King 120" × 120"5 1/2 yd (2 pieces joined)2 3/4 yd
King 108" × 95"116" × 103"King 120" × 120"5 3/4 yd (2 pieces joined)3 1/4 yd

Package sizes: Warm & Natural and Hobbs Heirloom 80/20 (see sources). Check the label, as sizes vary by brand and line. Your inputs above are highlighted when they match a row.

How it works

Batting width = quilt width + 2 × extra Batting length = quilt length + 2 × extra By the yard: one side fits the roll width; buy the other side ÷ 36, rounded up to ⅛ yd

Batting is cut bigger than the quilt top so the layers can shift a little while you quilt and still cover the edges. Longarm quilters usually ask for 4" extra on every side, because the frame needs something to hold. On a home machine or by hand, 2" per side is usually enough. The batting size is the quilt width plus twice the extra, by the quilt length plus twice the extra.

Next, the calculator checks each standard package and keeps the ones that cover the batting, either way round. It recommends the smallest of those by area, so you waste the least. Package sizes are not standard across brands: a Warm & Natural full is 90" x 96", while a Hobbs Heirloom full is 81" x 96". Check the label before you buy.

Batting by the yard comes off a wide roll. The roll width has to cover one side of the batting, and you buy the other side as length, rounded up to 1/8 yard. If the roll is narrower than both sides, you can butt two pieces edge to edge and join them with a wide zigzag. Batting has no seam allowance, so each piece only needs to cover half the span.

Worked example

A 60" x 80" quilt going to a longarm quilter needs batting 68" x 88". Crib and throw packages are too small. The twin package (72" x 90") fits with a little to spare. From a 90" roll, the 68" side runs along the roll, so you buy 68" of length, which is 2 yd.

Common mistakes

Last checked October 2026 against standard quilting and knitting math. Found a mistake? Tell us and we’ll fix it.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much bigger than the quilt top should batting be?

Usually 4" on every side for longarm quilting and 2" to 3" on every side for a home machine or hand quilting. Ask your longarm quilter, as some want more.

What size batting do I need for a queen quilt?

For a 90" x 95" queen quilt with 4" per side, you need 98" x 103". That is bigger than a 90" x 108" queen package, so buy a king package or 108" or wider batting by the yard.

Can I piece batting from leftovers?

Yes. Trim both edges straight, butt them together without overlapping, and join them with a wide zigzag or a joining tape made for batting. Keep joins away from the edges of the quilt.

Should I pre-wash batting?

Most manufacturers say it is not necessary. Cotton battings shrink 3 to 5% in the first wash, which gives an antique, crinkled look. If you want to avoid that, follow the pre-shrinking instructions on the package.

Sources